Even though you’ll have to get up early, you can finish it by sunset.
Does it seem a little… blah in there? One of the simplest ways to revitalise a worn-out area is to paint the walls a contemporary tint. It’s also one of the most economical projects because it’s one that the majority of homeowners can complete themselves.
Even while it seems simple, there are some tricks of the art. Take preparation as an example. By skipping this crucial step, you run the risk of having a peeling paint job or an undercoat that shows through. For instance, you’ll probably see cracking if you paint latex over oil, according to osdecor. These errors not only need a lot of time to correct, but they may also be quite expensive if you need to engage a specialist to do it for you.
But don’t worry; as long as you have the correct tools and an understanding of the fundamentals, you’ll be painting like a pro in no time. In order for you to move on to the next activity on your list, we’ll break it all down for you here, covering everything from materials to essential prep, rolling evenly, and even cleaning your brushes. For results that seem professional, remember to:
- Develop a plan.
You need a strategy before you even take up a paintbrush. Consider it like cooking: you want to read the recipe completely before you start haphazardly adding things to the pot; otherwise, you could realise you’re missing an essential ingredient halfway through.
Seek out: Does the ceiling also require some updating? How does the trim look? Also take into account your possibilities on the walls. Will you be painting with just one colour, or would you like to try painting with two colours (maybe for an accent wall)?
- Pick the right colour.
There are countless alternatives when it comes to paint colours. Finding exactly what you’re searching for will undoubtedly be a challenge, but choosing the perfect colour might be challenging. Consider your ultimate goal as a starting point for your quest. Do you have a warm or cool shade in mind? Is a strong colour necessary in your room, or would a neutral hue work better? You may start sorting through paint chips after you have a broad notion of the direction you want to take.
But don’t base your choice entirely on the tiny square: Paint might seem significantly differently on the wall than it does on the sample card! Once applied to the wall, colours frequently appear brighter, and the lighting in your space may significantly alter how the colour reads. Decide on a few finalists before buying sample cans.
- Make a paint swatch.
Paint swatches on the wall as soon as you get sample cans in your hands. Paint a 12-by-12-inch square with the colour in two coats to get a clear sense of how it will appear in your room. Put swatches in both the sunny and the shade regions of your space because this will influence the final appearance.
As an alternative, you may tape a foam board to the wall after painting it with two coats of paint (found at any craft or office supply store). This is an excellent alternative if you don’t want to start painting right away because you won’t have to put up with your walls having sporadic colour streaks.
For this kind of sample painting, use a cheap foam brush. You won’t squander money or dirty a tonne of brushes this way.
- Estimate the amount of paint you’ll need.
Many companies provide useful calculators you may use to figure out how much paint to purchase. Always double-check the package, but generally speaking, according to osdecor, a gallon is plenty for between 250 and 400 square feet. Remember that you’ll need a bit more for touch-ups and errors as well.
- Collect the required supplies.
It’s a good idea to fill your toolkit with a combination of the following products, even if the surface and size of your painting will directly impact the precise list of resources you need:
- Plaster tape
- Drop your attire
- paint brushes (both angled and straight)
- roll of paint
- paint jug
- Stick to it
Other worthwhile items include a paint can opener, an extension pole so you can store the ladder after the edging phase, and a pour spout to reduce mess.
- Prepare the space for painting.
- First, dry-dust the walls from floor to ceiling. Then, use a damp sponge or cloth to clean any particularly gritty areas since paint won’t stick to a filthy surface as well (think fingerprints, soot, dust, cobwebs). Don’t paint it till it has dried.
- Avoid getting paint or other liquids on the floor or any furniture that you can’t (or don’t want to) move. Fabric drop cloths are preferable than plastic ones for the floor since the latter might be slippery for you or, worse, the ladder.
- Remove the light switch and outlet covers, then use painter’s masking tape or Frog Tape to tape off any sections that you don’t want painted, including window frames, mouldings, or baseboards. The latter worked well and prevented paint from bleeding through when the osdecor tested it on a smooth wall.
- Prime the wall (or don’t, using our helpful method), as desired.
a little obstacle while attempting to paint a room in a single day: A coat of primer, two coats of paint, and at least six hours of drying time are required for painting a dark wall with a light colour or concealing stains. (If you’re painting the exterior on a humid day or in a really humid environment, it will take considerably longer.)
Reza advises using self-priming paint because it’s an affordable alternative to purchasing primer in this situation. From one light to the next? With two coats of high-quality ordinary paint, you can get away.
- Get the paint ready.
Despite the fact that the merchant usually shakes the paint for you, a good stir will guarantee that your paint is thoroughly mixed. This is especially crucial if the can has been stored on a shelf for a while. You may also strain the paint as an additional step, advises osdecor. “Impurities in the paint can are easier to remove than having them on your wall and having to remedy them afterwards.”
- Start off!
You are now prepared for the major event. Osdecor advises beginning with the lighter colour when painting a space with two colours, such as stripes. After it has dried, cover the divider with painter’s tape before painting the deeper shade.
According to painting experts like OSDecor in Dublin, here is how to use a roller and a brush to paint a room one colour:
- To “cut in,” or paint a two-inch swath around the corners of the woodwork and the ceiling, use an angled brush or a sponge tool. (Remember that step five detailed how to tape off these places.)
- Grab a roller and your paint tray. The improper tool will apply too much or too little paint. Use a 1/4-inch nap for smooth surfaces, a 3/8-inch nap for semi-smooth surfaces, or a 5/8-inch nap for uneven surfaces. Pre-wet the roller before painting with latex paint, advises osdecor.
- About 14 percent of the paint tray’s well should be filled. Roll the roller back and forth in the well while applying paint until it is evenly coated. To eliminate any extra, slide the roller back and forth in the upper section.
- Utilizing the roller, cover the centre bare area. To apply paint evenly, use overlapping W or M-shaped strokes on the wall.
- Allow the initial layer to dry for at least a few hours before applying a second coat. Refrigerate the tray, brush, and any plastic wrap that touches the painted surface in between applications.
Have a wet cloth on hand to remove recent spills.
Use a plastic spatula or credit card to remove any dried drops.
- Conclude and tidy up.
- If you decide to keep them, run your paintbrush and roller under the faucet until the water is clean.
- Refill the can with the remaining paint from the tray, then firmly seal it by covering the lid with a paper towel and hammering the lid’s edges. Clean the tray.
- To prevent the bristles from fanning out, place the brush back inside its original paper wrapper once the bristles have completely dried. Alternatively, try this do-it-yourself solution: To keep the bristles in place, fold a large piece of paper around them and tape it.
- Before you turn in for the night, remove the masking tape by taking it off at a 45-degree angle to prevent breaking the finish.