A Japanese knife is one of the best tools you can have in your kitchen for convenient and efficient cooking. Their organic and ergonomic design, combined with exceptional sharpness, makes them a useful and versatile option for a variety of kitchen cutting tasks. But to keep the blade performing at its best, a certain level of sharpness must be maintained. Depending on how frequently you use your Japanese knife, you may need to sharpen it on an occasional or regular basis.
Ask any professional chef, and they will tell you that a dull knife not only degrades performance but also becomes more difficult to control, making cooking much more dangerous. A sharpened knife, on the other hand, gives you full control of your blade, allowing you to slice with absolute precision.
While there are a few various ways to sharpen a Japanese knife, a Japanese sharpening stone is the most effective technique for cooks. Both pull-through and electric knife sharpeners are readily accessible and easy to use. Therefore, avoid them if you want to keep your blades in top condition for as long as possible. These devices are not appropriate for all blades and can eventually harm a knife.
A Japanese sharpening stone gives you more control over the blade and may be used to sharpen any knife, from a Japanese-style knife to a Western chef’s knife to your dependable pocket knife.
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Types of Japanese Sharpening Stone
Different types of Japanese sharpening stones available include water, oil and ceramic/glass. They are all used for different purposes.
Water Sharpening Stone
Whetstones, commonly referred to as water-sharpening stones, are a popular choice for sharpening blades, especially kitchen knives, butcher knives, and other hard-use knives that require an edge. They are known as “water stones” because they require moisture to effectively sharpen.
Both natural and artificial options are available, with the bulk of natural water stones originating from Japan or Central Europe, the latter of which has a considerably higher price due to rarity. There is a natural stone for practically any use because they come in a range of grits.
Natural water stones are less common and more expensive than synthetic ones. The majority of these stones will have both coarse and fine grit surfaces in order to maximise their versatility.
Synthetic stones are often easier to use than natural stones, however, they may occasionally require flattening with a specific lapping plate to maintain a level top surface. This isn’t a difficult task by any means, but you need to consider it.
Oil Sharpening Stones
Oil sharpening stones are the most cost-effective choice and are effective with softer steels. Because they are used with oil, they are known as oil stones. This keeps the removed almost minuscule metal particles from clogging the sharpening stone as you slide the blade across it and keeps the blade from grabbing on anything as you sharpen.
Grit is somewhat harder to come by with oil stones. Also, they tend to be a little bit coarser due to the fact that they are comprised of silicon oxide or aluminium oxide. In other words, they aren’t a good choice for knives with a highly polished surface or for knives made of contemporary “super steels” that are extremely tough.
Ceramic Sharpening Stones
A ceramic sharpening stone is a synthetically manufactured stone formed of grit particles that have been bonded to form a single contiguous block in highly precise measurements. They were so exact and long-lasting because of their manufactured nature; they were nearly like diamond stones. They do cost more than natural stones, though.
These stones are frequently crafted from a substance called corundum. This substance, an aluminium oxide, is used often in sandpaper, emery boards, and other industrial abrasive applications. As a result, the surface becomes incredibly hard and ideal for sharpening.
Grit size should be taken into account when choosing a sharpening stone. The basic guideline is that the stone is rougher the lower the grit size number.
Japanese stones are generally divided into 3 different categories:
- Arato – a coarse stone with anywhere from about 200 to 800 grit.
- Nakato – a middle store with anywhere from about 800 to 1500 grit.
- Shiageto – a finishing stone which is from about 1500 grit and up.
The 400-grit and 1000-grit stones are both fantastic ways to start building your stone collection. The majority of Japanese knives can have their edges polished and minor chips repaired with this. Obviously, depending on your degree of passion, you’ll want a #3000 grit or higher if you have a single-sided knife like a Yanagi ba.
Make sure the sharpening stone you purchase has a deck that is of a respectable size. In order to keep the knife balanced on the stone, look for something that is at least 70mm by 200mm in size.
Ceramic vs. Synthetic vs. Natural Stones
A set of premium artificial stones is a wise choice if you’re not sure or are just getting started. They are the most forgiving, easiest to operate, and require the least amount of maintenance. Think about the Naniwa Stone if you’re just starting off. They don’t require soaking and are of good quality and durability. For experienced users, I advise the Kaiden Ceramics or Naniwa Pro sharpening stone.
Invest in Quality
Sharpening stones on the market come in a wide range of qualities. It is not a given that a sharpening stone will match the quality of the blades just because it carries the name of a well-known company. Local shops frequently offer stones that they purchased for cheap from China and had imprinted with the name of the brand they distribute, with or without the knifemaker’s approval.
Buy only top-notch stones from a supplier who can offer reliable usage guidelines. A quality stone will be considerably easier to work with and will last 2 to 10 times longer than a cheap stone.
You have the option to adjust the knife’s sharpness to meet your specific needs as you become more comfortable using the stone and sharpening process. With a little experience, you’ll be able to accurately attain the necessary sharpness and return your knives’ edges to their previous state.